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12 unique dining experiences in the Sherry capital, Jerez de la Frontera

Innovative cuisine and the wines of Jerez work so wonderfully together that it is not surprising that, in the birthplace of these wines, imaginative cooking has been conspicuous in recent years. Here are a dozen examples:

Innovative cuisine has really arrived in Jerez and it is intimately connected to its wine. The following are examples of places where one can eat things which are different, daring, but almost always full of flavour, novel interpretations of traditional everyday dishes, the cooking of other worlds adapted to products from here, or outstanding exercises in imagination. They are the perfect places to enjoy Sherry and are in Jerez itself, a city that now boasts two Michelin-starred establishments.

1. Lu Cocina y Alma

Located in Aladro Square, Lu Cocina y Alma earned its Michelin star in 2018. Headed by Jerez-born chef Juan Luis Fernández, who spent 10 years as second in command at the three-starred Aponiente. Known as Juanlu among chefs, he takes culinary risks by placing the kitchen in the midst of the dining area, with no separation from customers who can witness the spectacle of a live kitchen at tables positioned just half a meter from the stoves. Regarding the food, it revolves around tasteful and elegant tasting menus that offer a captivating interpretation of Cadiz cuisine, with nods to popular dishes. The wine list features many Sherries and premium wines, the latest trend in the province of Cádiz. They also own two other intriguing establishments in Jerez: Bina Bar, specializing in snacks with interesting proposals, and Krombol, a breakfast spot gaining attention throughout Spain for its quality and originality.

Our recommendation: The tasting menu.

 

2. Mantúa

Awarded Jerez's second Michelin star in 2019, Mantúa derives its name from a grape variety that was common in the Jerez region two hundred years ago. The venture is led by another Jerez-born chef, Israel Ramos, trained at the School of Hospitality in Cádiz. Also located in Aladro Square, it opened in late 2017. The minimalistic decor emphasizes what is served on the plate. The experience revolves around tasting menus where Ramos showcases his elegance and insight into flavor combinations. Wines play a crucial role in the menus, to the extent that dishes are chosen based on them. A wide selection of Sherries and premium wines is available. Israel Ramos also manages Albalá, another gastrobar with an equally interesting innovative kitchen, located across from the School of Equestrian Art. Here, the proposal involves enjoying dishes and tapas.

Our recommendation: The extensive 16-course tasting menu. 

3. La Carboná

Chef Javier Muñoz has already been dubbed the Sherry chef. The restaurant's cellar, meticulously maintained for years by Javier's mother, Ana Soto, is one of the most comprehensive in the region and is continuously expanding. Their selection of wines by the glass is particularly noteworthy. Everything revolves around wine. The restaurant is in an elegantly restored old cellar, and wines or vinegars are always present in the dishes. Local ingredients are treated intelligently and harmoniously. The dining experience includes a variety of dishes, and there's also a tasting menu paired with Sherries. The establishment is on San Francisco de Paula Street.

Our recommendation: The tasting menu with Sherries.

 

4. Hermanos Carrasco

It all began with a small tavern in a neighborhood in Jerez. Now, the Carrasco Brothers run a spacious restaurant on Caballero Bonald Avenue. The establishment is divided into two spaces. The first is dedicated to the restaurant, offering imaginative dishes and a wide variety of beef from different parts of Spain and coastal fish. Juan Manuel Carrasco particularly tests his creativity in the tapas area, presenting quite striking proposals that reach their peak with desserts. The wine cellar, with a significant presence of Sherries, is managed by his brother Miguel Angel.

Our recommendation: Try the meats.

 

5. Ultimatún

The main attraction of this establishment is the almadraba red tuna from the coasts of Cadiz. Chefs Mario Montero and Rubén Dorantes offer it in various ways, from raw to stews. They have everything from chicharrones made with this fish to Moroccan-style seasoned skewers, tataki, or stews. The menu is complemented by a varied selection of traditional and innovative tapas, featuring creative presentations that change with the seasons.

Our recommendation: The tuna skewer.

 

6. Pedro Nolasco

A fine dining restaurant located within the Gonzalez Byass winery. Situated in an old winery building, its patio provides a front-row view of the Cathedral of Jerez. The space accommodates around 60 people and is located next to the Tio Pepe Hotel. Access is through the famous Ciegos Street, a path inside the winery, adorned with beautiful vines – the vineyard leaves. In terms of gastronomy, Chef Alejandro Bazán offers innovative cuisine using local products, from fish to meats, with a strong emphasis on wines. There is an option to enjoy rare sherry varieties by the glass, unusual for restaurants.

Our recommendation: Tuna with caramelized onions and roasted pepper juice.

 

7. Tiemar

This restaurant is an initiative of Jerez-born chef Isidro López Lozano, trained at the prestigious Taberna del Alabardero in Seville. The visually appealing venue recreates oriental street food markets, simulating a street with the kitchen on one side, visible to the public, and a bar where López and his partner Laura Castillo cook just a short distance from the customers. The restaurant has 32 seats, 12 at the bar and the rest at low tables. They employ high cuisine techniques, textures, and a fusion of cultures, especially oriental. The menu is concise, consisting of only twelve dishes, including desserts and specials. Many of the offerings are small bites, allowing for a personalized tasting menu or the option to sample the entire menu. The wine list features Sherries and other Andalusian labels. Pay attention to the delicious desserts with spectacular presentations. Reservations are recommended.

Our suggestion: Try many dishes.

 

8. La Cruz Blanca

Situated on Consistorio Street, La Cruz Blanca is a classic and a key player in the gastronomic boom in downtown Jerez. With a well-curated Sherry list, the establishment blends classics with innovative proposals by chef Miguel Angel Rubiales, trained at the San Roque School of Hospitality. The menu of innovative dishes changes weekly and revolves around seasonal products such as almadraba red tuna or mushrooms. The dining experience involves sharing plates. The terrace adds value to the restaurant, although you can also enjoy tapas at the bar.

Our recommendation: Try the daily specials.

 

9. Roneo

Established by Chely del Ojo, who had previously worked as a chef at places like Albores in Jerez and the Faro Blanco beach bar. The establishment, featuring an indoor lounge with high and low tables and a pleasant terrace on Porvera Street, offers a highly original cuisine meant for sharing. The dishes are well-presented, and Del Ojo's cooking is quite innovative within the framework of creative and fusion cuisine, with a significant presence of local products. The house desserts are also noteworthy.

Our recommendation: Try the papas bravas.

 

10. Albores

Chef Julián Olivares has captured the spirit of Jerez's cuisine like no other. His clams with Jerez vinegar, one of the dishes that brought him fame, have become iconic. Now, he owns his own restaurant on Consistorio Street, and in 2017, added a new proposal, A Mar, just a few meters away on Latorre Street. The menu is extensive, allowing for tapas or ordering dishes, all accompanied by a well-curated Sherry list. There's everything from classics like ensaladilla to daring salads, red tuna presented in various ways, rice dishes, and carefully prepared meats and fish. Pay special attention to the suggestions menu, where Olivares showcases his more creative side.

Our recommendation: Sautéed clams with Jerez vinegar.

 

11. Akase

An innovative Japanese restaurant launched by chef Jaime Mena. The space is small, with just half a dozen tables, so it's advisable to make a reservation. They offer original dishes that integrate ingredients such as tongue, mantis shrimp, sea urchin, or chamomile in Asian recipes. They define themselves as a market restaurant with Japanese essence and practice "omakase," a tasting menu that the chef decides daily based on what's available.

Our recommendation: The Omakase menu.

12. Kmaron

Chef Javier Molero and front-of-house professional Magdalena Quesada opened the establishment on March 3, 2021. Javier has an extensive resume, including his time at Streetxo, the street food restaurant launched by the famous chef David Muñoz, and gained recognition in Jerez after his brilliant stint at the Mulai restaurant in Pescadería Vieja. Magdalena has also worked at Montia restaurant in Madrid (1 Michelin Star), whose wine cellar specializes in natural wines – a facet that Magdalena aims to develop in Jerez at their establishment. The venue has a lounge of about 140 square meters, including a spacious bar and low tables. They decorated everything themselves with oriental and maritime touches, making a nod to the cuisine they will develop. In fact, they define themselves as a restaurant of "high street cuisine" where they will create dishes with oriental techniques, Javier's specialty, but using local products and references to local preparations. The menu will feature about twenty specialties, in addition to desserts and off-menu dishes, displayed on boards hanging on the wall, just like the off-menu wines.

Our recommendation: The scallop tiradito.

 

 

By Pepe Monforte
Pepe Monforte Ariza nació en la bahía de Cádiz el 2 de mayo de 1965. Periodista de profesión y de vocación, lleva casi 20 años especializado en gastronomía. Ha trabajado para Radio Cádiz de la Cadena Ser o La Voz de Cádiz. En la actualidad colabora con Diario de Cádiz en la sección de gastronomía y elabora la revista www.cosasdecome.es dedicada a la provincia de Cádiz. Ha recibido varios premios como el de promoción del Turismo de la Diputación de Cádiz o el de la Academia Andaluza de Gastronomía y Turismo.

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